With its large front windows facing Tomkins Park and 17th Avenue Southwest, Parc Café and Brasserie strives to make French cuisine approachable, casual and pleasurable. It often comes with preconceptions about snooty waiters and haute cuisine, but Parc manager Nicholas Hewton describes it in a down-to-earth way. “French food is the basis for a lot of what we have in Canada. Stews and braises are things people have been doing for hundreds of years. It doesn’t have to be ultra-fine dining for very few people.”
Launched by the Creative Group in 2015, Parc breaks from the Italian cuisine served at its sister establishments Bonterra Trattoria and Cibo. However, it features their friendly, community-restaurant approach. This approachability manifests itself in Parc’s appearance. It's a large, upscale café one might imagine finding in Paris, where people talk about life over wine and food. Nicholas describes the room as two restaurants in one. The front (with its bar, high ceilings and black-and-white tile floors) is high-energy and bustling. The back is quieter and much more like an intimate French bistro.
With its black-and-white checkered floors, white subway-tiled walls and giant portrait of Serge Gainsbourg in the back, everything about Parc feels authentically French. With a menu featuring French mainstays like beef tartare, steak frites and cassoulet, the look of the place accentuates the spirit of the food.
Calgary’s French restaurant scene has exploded in recent years, and Parc serves some of the tastiest casual French food in the city. On the indulgent end of the spectrum (and really, with added Béarnaise, cheese and butter sauces, a good chunk of the menu falls into this category), be sure to take a look at the foie gras torchon, chicken liver pâté, lacquered pork belly and lamb-neck Parmentier.
A proper Parisian-style brasserie should serve an excellent beef tartare and Parc, thankfully, does not disappoint. Served in the traditional style with pickled onion, egg and crostini, Parc’s expertly seasoned tartare is available either as an appetizer or an entree.